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Jacquard & embossing | Li people's initial experience of unique textile technology

The waist machine | weaves the clothes of the sun and moon


The waist loom is one of the oldest looms, very similar to the looms used by the Banpo Clan six or seven thousand years ago, and was widely used in Asia, Mexico, and Guatemala. When weaving cloth, the weaver is also a part of the loom, primarily controlling the tension of the warp. In a wide variety of looms, the waist machine is versatile, lightweight and portable, and consists of only a few poles and a belt. The weaving girl of Li nationality has been using waist weaving machine for three thousand years, they are good at jacquard process, first write various stripes into convenient management of the warp program, weaving process like a computer orderly run 0101 instructions, which makes the world admire.


Brocade jacquard part knitting essentials:


①: The feet and the waist in the body will strain the warp straight, F and H move back and forth several times, you can form a natural opening, a large wooden knife into the opening and stand up, through the shuttle, and beat the weft.


②: Adjust the orientation of E, determine the jacquard heald stick according to the order (1 to 11, then 11 to 1), stab a thicker bamboo stick, and replace the jacquard heald stick with convenient G. After these preparations are done, the body bends, rotates D to the front of C, and lifts H to form an opening. At this moment, lift G, the large wooden knife is pierced into the opening, and stands up, through the shuttle, and weft.


③ : Repeat the steps of ①②, and the markings of Li brocade will gradually weave up.


The Li women only use a few bamboo branches and wooden strips to form a waist machine, weaving the eyes of the world and the history of all things. Today, the jacquard machine has long been controlled by the computer, the power has been improved, and the era of weaving doyen for oneself has long gone from us. However, weaving is no longer a job to satisfy the needs of livelihood in exchange for daily supplies, but a creative method and tool to show the inner world and individual talent, in order to weave and depict the present, so that the strange talent immortal in the world.

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